cooking @ home

Archive for the ‘Salads’ Category

©2008 Harry Kenney

Well, I’m back after my “hiatus”. My initial thought was to put up one of the maybe dozen new dishes I’ve made over the past several months. Instead, I’m starting back up with my most very recent meal. I got a bit more adventurous the other night, making something competely new for me and it turned out so well I’m going to share that one first.

But before doing that I want to talk about taste or maybe it would be more accurate to call this the “conveyance of taste”. Now I consider myself as having a pretty good palate. Mind you, I haven’t yet taken any blind food tests — although to sate my own curiosity I have a friend who promises when she gets a chance that we’ll do one. I always watch Hell’s Kitchen and each season it’s amazing to see how trained chefs can’t tell the difference between an apple and a piece of potato when blindfolded. Ok, I’m on a bit of a tangent; let me get back to the heart of the matter here, which is, in this case arugula.

Now, believe it or not, until recently I’d never tasted it. How can that be? I don’t know. There’s too many things in the world. What’s normal for one isn’t for another. For me there’s still what seems like hundreds of cheeses and dozens of greens and other delicious food items still awaiting my taste buds. I see that as a great adventure awaiting me. Anyhow, arugula is one of those favs of television cooks it seems. (By the way, if you have ever heard a British cook talk about a green known as “rocket” … yes, apparently that is their name for arugula.) And I’ve always heard those cooks say it tastes peppery. Just as I keep hearing Mexican orgeano has a minty flavor, Thai basil has a licorice or anise taste, and olive oil is often described as “fruity” and brown butter as “nutty”.

Not sure about you but, while I do know what they’re getting at, I don’t taste olive oil and go “ah, fruit!” Do you? I don’t taste browned butter and yell out “Wow, it’s nuts!” So I was surprised when finally I tasted arugula and thought “ok, where’s the pepper at?” All these years and I start to wonder if the cooks we rely on are a little bit whacky, and a shared whackiness at that. Again, I think — and I’m starting to question slightly — if my palette is as good as I’ve always thought. It must be as I can usually go to a restaurant and divine various ingredients in a new sauce. But I’m not tasting the fruitness, nuttiness or pepperiness in any of these items. Or am I?

So what makes me wonder is, when cookbook authors and television chefs describe something a certain way, maybe they’re just trying to talk about a slight delicate thing? Or maybe someone came up with the idea and they all copy each other. I think if I had never heard those adjectives described about these foods, that I would not necessarily come up with the same descriptions. To put it another way, I would be very hard pressed having never heard of the peppery arugula description or the fruity olive oil description to convey to someone exactly what they actually tasted like. That is an exceptionally difficult task. How do you describe a color to a blind person? Or a musical note to a deaf person? So how does one describe food with it’s delicate nuances to someone who has never had that particular food?

I will tell you this, whatever description one gives to arugula, I definitely like the taste. It’s similiar and yet different from lettuce. It’s definitely not like fresh spinich, although it similiarly can be used in a salad instead of lettuce, which gave me the idea for this meal in the first place. I thought to myself, if arugula has a slight peppery taste what’s a nice offset from that? Lemon vinaigrette came to mind. So did using either capers or olives; I ended up choosing olives, and my favorites, the dark Kamala ones not the green ones. After that everything was just keeping things simple but doing that little balance, red onion for kick, olive for bite, lemon for acidity and freshness plus while it might counterpoint the arugula it would also compliment the chicken.

The grilled portobello caps is something I’ve been dying to do for a long time. To be candid, I have no idea if the balsamic vinegar and grated Parmesan was all my idea or if I had seen it on a television show before. It would not surprise me if I’d seen it on TV as the simpler you make a meal, the more easily it can either be copied or a that a ton of people can have the same idea. In a lot of ways, this is a very simple meal, but I think still rather elegant. Yes, I love bold, complex flavors as you’ve seen from my barbecue dishes; at the same time I like the “other side” too, when something simple and basic and few ingredients can be so tasty. The salad is five ingredients plus the dressing. As said the portobello mushroom is pretty much the star and the very slight cheese and very slight balsamic are barely supporting players. To be candid, while I find the balsamic defintiely adds an interesting dimension and it’s good that way, I found I actually liked the porotbellos caps better without — just the seasoned mushroom and the light dusting of cheese on top.

In my case I used the indoor cast iron two-burner grill. This would have been an excellent one, both the chicken and the bello caps, to put on the outside grill, but since it was a 99 degree day I passed on that. I’m sure the charcoal would have served as an incredible “seasoning” of it’s own and brought something else special to the meal. Btw, I used vegetable oil not olive oil on the caps as, firstly, I wanted to better taste the mushroom and secondly, when it comes to grilling you might recall vegetable oil has a higher smoke point that olive oil does.

Before I forget to mention this, for myself, for the salad, I had it the first night with the olives, arugula and red onions just a tad chilled from the refrigerator and the mushrooms and chicken warm. It made for a wonderful combination having that little chill and that little warmth together as counterparts. It also meant the warm ingredients gave ever the slighest delectable wilting to the arugula too. Since I was cooking for two and it’s one of those meals that serves four or five I naturally had leftovers. If you also end up having leftovers my servng suggestion for the second day is, well, two ways you can have it. chilled from the fridge or you can let it sit out for 30-60 minutes beforehand and serve it at room temperature. I preferred the latter, but either way it’s still going to be delicious.

©2008 Harry Kenney

Warm Grilled Chicken & Arugula Salad

2 medium to large skinless, boneless chicken breasts
5 oz fresh baby arugula, washed and dried
1 medium red onion, sliced very thin
2 oz Kamala olives, halved
10-14 medium button mushrooms, sliced

salt, pepper, garlic powder (optional) to taste
vegetable oil

Lemon Vinaigrette

4-5 tbsps lemon juice
tsp fresh lemon zest
tsp dried oregano
tsp dried basil
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Prepare the salad, in a large bowl place the argula, onion and olives and place in refrigerator to chill slightly. Take sliced mushrooms and into a small pan, brown well, adding vegetable oil as needed, salt and pepper half way through, then set aside.

On a plate oil salt and pepper the chicken then place on oiled grill top (indoor or outdoor.) Flip only once (or as little as possible) Roughly 5-7 minutes per side. Cook until you get a reading of 170-180°F inside. Let site for at least five minutes then cut into bite-sized pieces. Make the dressing by, either in a blender or a small bowl placing lemon zest, lemon juice, orgeano and basil and then slowly whisk in (or in blender, pour in) olive oil until you get an emulsion.

Take salad bowl out of refrigerator. Add warm chicken pieces and warm mushrooms. Add to salad salt, pepper, and (optional) garlic powder and toss. Pour half vinagrette, toss, then remainder toss again and serve. Makes 4-5 servings.

Grilled Portobello Caps (optional side)

5 large portobellos caps, cleaned
balsamic vinegar (optional)
grated Parmesan
vegetable oil
salt, pepper to taste

Clean five large portobello caps. Taking out gills is optional. (You would need to take them out if you were filling the caps, but we’re not.) On place oil on top, salt and pepper, then place on grill cap side down. Season and oil the inside of the mushrooms if you haven’t already. Add oil as needed. Roughly 5-6 minutes for the cap side to grill. Then another 4-5 minutes for the underside. Just before serving, (optional) lightly drizzle balsamic vinegar and sprinkle of grated Parmesan. Serve warm.

©2008 Harry Kenney

One thing you know about the way I do things, for those who follow me, is that besides pointing out tips I point out the rough spots, the mistakes that I’ve made on a previous version or how to correct mistakes if they’re made. What you don’t see (though I sometimes talk about) are the once in a while big flops.

Yes, I have them too. We all do. (You might find some comfort in that.) Maybe I made a silly mistake that flopped the whole thing. Once in a while the technique I used was the downfall — as when I tried too tough a cut of beef for shish kabobs. Sometimes I misjudge as with a recent braised Swiss chard recipe where by (having not used it before) I totally miscalculated the amount of shrinkage and so the other ingredients in the dish came out in too much proportions.

Then there’s this dish. Over half a year ago I tried something like this. I was going to call it a California salad. It has pineapple and avocado and other ingredients. I also attempted to make some kind of yogurt dressing, though I forget now what was in it besides the yogurt. It was a miserable flop. The dressing and salad didn’t work individually and they worked worse together. I’m still not sure what I did wrong.

Point is, many months later I made a Greek yogurt dressing and it came out nice. And then I made a tropical salsa and it came out excellent. With more time and experience behind my belt, I once again decided to make this salad. But I didn’t take what I did before in to account on purpose. I didn’t try, that is, to go to the same blueprint and make corrections. I just went at it anew with whatever my gut told me to do. You see my gut, my experience had grown more since then, I just let it guide me.

In short, it worked. (If it hadn’t the recipe wouldn’t be up and it you wouldn’t know about it.) So, if you think I cook a lot now judging be the recipes you see on this site. Well sometimes things go wrong behind the scenes and I end up wasting food and my time and taking photos. (Fortunately my flops are few and far between, but they happen.) I don’t feel bad, that is, we all make mistakes. Look at Top Chef, look at other shows … did the winner of the competition ever have a bad dish or were they perfect from day one? They all, even the best of chefs, have a bad day, a bad dish. In fact, if you experiment — and you should — this will always happen; it’s part of the game. So I don’t let it get to me. Again, we often learn from our mistakes.

One thing I do want to mention briefly is that while I’m not sure what happened to that first attempt of a salad similiar to this, my best guess is it was just the wrong mixture and/or proportion of flavors to each other. I like making complex dishes at times. I like the harmony, the interplay of tastes. You know this from other dishes like BBQ sauce. You’ve heard Bobby Flay talk about this. Ming Tsai has made a career out of these balances. The yin and yang. The sweet to offset the sharp; the sharp to liven it up; the hot to give it bite; the oil to clam it down; the tang against … You get the idea.

You might recall one of my very first articles here, Secret to Great Cooking: A Harmony of Contrasts, where I talked about “combining to create a unity of opposites”. That’s what this particular dish — both the salad and the dressing, and more so the two together — really is about. Last time out, my “grasp” of this was off a bit, and that was just enough that it didn’t work. This time my understanding of combining these disparate elements was better and I was successful. Point is, try things. Fail, get up, learn, try it again. Maybe you can figure it out and get it right the next day, maybe eight months has to pass by. Either way, don’t force it, but don’t give up.

One final thing. Not only is this one delicious salad, but the dressing is one of the best I’ve ever made. You will be very surprised how absolutely fantastic it tastes. I’ve made this with both extra-virgin olive oil and at another time with vegetable oil and both work fine, though the olive oil is preferred as it adds an extra fruity dimension to it. Enjoy!

Avocado Salad
©2008 Harry Kenney

2 avocados, peeled and chunked
1/2 medium red onion, chopped
1 pint (16 oz.) cherry tomatoes, leave whole
1 corn cob (roughly 1-1/2 cups), cooked, kernels seperated
1/2 cup fresh pineapple, chunked
1/2 cup fresh papaya, chunked
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, finely minced

Simply mix above together well and serve with dressing.

Cilantro-Lime Vinaigrette
©2008 Harry Kenney

1/2 cup cilantro, finely chopped
2 tbsp lime juice
2 tbsp honey
extra-virgin olive oil (vegetable oil also works)

Place first three ingredients in a blender (can be an old ordinary bar blender, doesn’t have to be a new super powered one). Take off blender top and while mixing, pour in olive oil from top to emulsify. Use approximately 3 parts olive oil to rest of ingredients or until looks right consistency. Taste. Add more if needed until happy with result.

Add by tablespoons over avacado salad (or other salad of your choosing) and mix in well. Serve.

Note: Keep this in refrigerator in a conventional wide-mouthed leftover container; do not bottle. Refrigeration will combine mixture into a thick gelatin-like consistency. To reuse simply mix well with fork for 15 seconds. If needed you could add 1/2 teaspoon of both water and oil.

©2008 Harry Kenney

This recipe is so cut and dry that for once I’m not sure what even to write about. Of course, that’s not usually the case and this blog is set up to show the first two paragraphs and then “divide” so I have to write something here. I guess I’ll just say how nice it is to wander the earth from my desktop computer and from my kitchen and to see — and to taste — how different people’s do the same thing — like a salad — but do it their own way.

Californians, parts of Mexico and Spain all have salads that contain avacado, for instance. In Greece, it’s olives and feta that helps make it uniquely theirs, their “stamp” on things, or their contribution. You’ll notice two ingredients I say are option, I myself didn’t put into this salad, anchovies and hard-boiled eggs. Again two ingredients that make it more distinctly Mediterranean in nature. So, try it with one of the two Greek salad dressings I posted here yesterday if you want to keep it authentically Greek — or feel free to use your own favorite salad dressing. Your choice. Enjoy.

  

Greek Salad
©2008 Harry Kenney

1 medium green pepper, devaned, deseeded, small dice
Two dozen Kamala olives, halved
2 cucumbers, peeled and deseeded, diced
1 large red onion, diced
12-16 Roma (plum) tomatoes diced
10 oz romaine lettuce
2 oz radicchio
2 oz endive
anchovies, sliced (optional)

to taste:
organo
parsley
salt
pepper
garlic powder

toppings:

crumbled feta cheese
hard-boiled egg, sliced or diced (optional)

Greek salad dressing of your choice

Mix the above ingredients together in a bowl. Toss the seasonings thoroughly. I then like to put the salad bowl into refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes, both to give it all a chill and to let all the ingredients and seasonings marry together. Remember to never put feta or egg into the actual salad in terms of storage. Store them seperately. Only add toppings and dressing to a salad immediately before serving. Salad makes 6-8 servings.

©2008 Harry Kenney

Seems lately I’ve been doing some pairings. First the pesto then the pasta. Another day, a side and then a soup to go with it. Today, something similiar. I’ve made two Greek salad dressings and tomorrow or the next day I’ll put up the Greek salad that goes with it.

I told you I got into a bit of a “rut” doing a lot of Italian and Italian-American food. Well, rut is a negative word and I’m not pinning that in any way on the food, just the lack of variety. So you’ll also notice that I’m taking a more global walk on the wild side. Why? Pretty simple. I love all kinds of food. And fortunately seemingly every country, and often smaller regions of countries, have contributed major food items or at least nuances to the overall food tapestry of what we eat.

In this case, take the simple salad dressing. From my previous article on vinaigrettes we already know that a basic salad dressing consists of oil and then something acidic, either vinegar, alcohol or citrus acid and seasonings. In the case of the first dressing here it’s the lemon and honey where the Greeks have given us a twist.

When it comes to the second recipe, Greek cuisine has given us a complete flip from the norm with the introduction of yogurt as well as the infusion of mint to give a very different and intrinsically Greek flavor to the ordinary salad. As to the salad, well, you’ll have to wait until tomorrow.

One more thing. This is odd. Now four of us had both dressings, two of each. I fully expected to like the creamy one better. To my surprise I liked the vinaigrette better. The creamier one tasted better prior to putting it on the salad, more body. And yet the other one tasted better to me on the salad. That said, one other person agreed and the other two liked the creamy. So, what it comes down to is you might like one of these or both; either way there’s at the very least one here you’ll enjoy, and hopefully two.

Lemon-Honey Vinaigrette
©2008 Harry Kenney

1/3 cup red wine vinager
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
juice from 1/2 a lemon (roughly 2 tbsps)
1/2 tsp parsley flakes
2 tsps dried oregano
4 tbsps honey

Place all the ingredients in a bowl except for the olive oil. Pour in the olive oil while whisking the bowl. You could do this in a blender also. Done. Makes enough for about 4-6 salads.

Mint Yogurt Salad Dressing
©2008 Harry Kenney

1 cup drained plain yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tsp mint flakes
1 tsp oregano
2 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp lemon juice
salt
pepper

Mix everything together. Vary seasonings or proportions to taste. Ta-da. Enough for 8-10 salads.

Fennel is one of those “strange vegetables” Americans just don’t know much about. Fortunately, as with many vegetables and many foods nowadays, there is a greater embracing of the culinary unknown — in short, where before folks would see something in a supermarket and pass it by, slowly more and more people are now not only avoiding them, but also seeking these items out.

So I was delighted to find in a single week the sudden appearance of fennel bulbs at both my supermarket’s produce section as well as my favorite produce speciality store. Interesting, in each place it showed up as, in turn, first “anise” and then “anise root” because of it’s taste.

To me, it has a consistency most like celery and somewhat like apple or potato, and a taste that is again somewhat like celery mixed with a bit of licorice. We’re talking mildly-flavored, of course. I don’t think something tasting robustly like licorace would be anything other than pungent. This versatile initially Mediterranean grown vegetable — and it’s more famous herb, fennel seed — is used from Spain to Greece, Morocco to the Middle East, to India and China (afterall fennel seed is often one of those mentioned in Five Spice Powder).

Because of it’s licorice like taste you would expect to see this in many a sweet dish and possibly a few savory ones. Turns out to be the absolute opposite about 20 to 1 in favor it being used in something savory, often in a sauce or soup.

I decided in this case to take advantage of both it’s celery-like consistency and it’s fruity (anise, anyhow) taste and make a light salad with it. It was a good choice. Definitely highlighted the taste of the fennel and showed me how it can stand up well against other flavors without overpowering them. No wonder it’s used in soups and sauces so much. Trust me, this salad — which is oh-so amazingly simple — will surprise you. My one “taste tester” who can never take anything too far out there — aka, different from the norm — loved this. So did I. So I’m betting will you.

Fennel Tangerine Salad
©2007 Harry Kenney

One medium fennel bulb, cut off top, take out inner core, slice into chunks
Three tangerines, peel, deseed, make into half slices
Half one-red onion, chunks (or a quarter one yellow onion, minced)
Half bag of assorted spring mix lettuces

salt
pepper
orgeano
basil
garlic powder

Mix together veggies in bowl. Add lettuce, season, place in refrigerator for 10-15 minutes so flavors mix and to add slight chill. (Do this with all salads) Preferrably top with bottled or fresh Italian dressing. Serves four.

Just the other day I was talking to a neighbor who I had given this recipe to a couple months back, and she told me hers didn’t taste at all as good as mine, and then detailed the problems she had. So, while (for once) I didn’t make any mistakes, I’ll share hers with you so you don’t get the chance to make them yourself.

First, she took everything out of the can, including that gunky “reminants” that’s left in the bottom of cans of beans. Also she didn’t know to wash them well first. So that took something away from the taste. It was apparently much worse the next day when she decided to take some to work for lunch: she had put the dressing, feta and salad altogether.

Nope, can’t do that. Not only must you keep them in separate containers in the refrigerator. But even for a lunch even for just a few hours, you’ll need to take them into work as three separate items and always “assemble” them fresh.

Just wanted to add, I’ve had this once or twice as a “three beaner” (when my very annoying supermarket was out of the Italian beans), and while it’s not bad, I just love the Italian green beans; they really make the difference in this dish. Make it “come alive” in your mouth. Sure, you can substitute regular green beans if you want, but while they are close, they are still just not the same, not as much taste. Btw, in case you never heard of them, they are also known as Romano beans, Italian string beans, flat Italian green beans, and flat beans. And officially they are described as “flat, wide snap beans”.

I am definitely an ominvore (meat and veggie eater), leaning more towards the carnivore rather than the herbivore side, Even so, I really do love this salad. There is something, somehow “meaty” in eating beans that really surprises me. Dunno, maybe something in me recognizes the high-levels of protein. Needlesstosay this is one very healthy, and yet somehow hearty meal, that’s as delicious to look at as it is to taste.

Mediterranean Four Bean Salad
©2007 Harry Kenney

ingredients:

19 oz can garbanzo beans (aka chickpeas)
19 oz can red kidney beans
19 oz can black beans
10 oz. italian green beans, frozen, steamed crisp
1 large red onion, large chop
4-6 scallions, green and white parts, chopped
2 cucumbers (peeled, deseeded, chunks)
1 yellow or orange bell pepper, julianned (optional)
olives, green or black, to your taste (optional)
three roma (plum) totmatos, chunks (optional)

seasonings, to taste:

basil
oregano
mint (optional)
garlic powder
salt
pepper

1 cup italian dressing
2 tbsps fresh lime juice
feta cheese (optional)

Take a little more than half of a one-pound bag of frozen Italian green beans, steam about three minutes, put into cold ice bath to stop cooking (also known as blanching). With each can of beans, empty into large strainer and wash under cold water for about half a minute, then add to large bowl. Add Italian beans, oniones, cucumbers. Add tomatoes and olives. (optional) Season once with listed seasonings. Toss using clean hands. Add more, toss again. To the cup of Italian dressing add 2 tbsps of fresh lime juice and mix. Serve with crumbled feta cheese on top. Makes about six portions.

What do I mean by “everyday”? Well, “average” is not the right word, as if it were merely “average” I wouldn’t be eating it, let alone making it. “Normal”, maybe more accurate a term, though not so appealing sounding.

Let me start anew. A good friend of mine said to me I should stop pretending to be “Top Chef” and talk about the regular stuff, that, afterall, my site is called “Cooking at Home”. As usual (hehe) my good friend is neither completely right nor completely wrong (and so, same applies to me.) In my opinion, she’s “wrong” in that, average home cooking needn’t be boring or merely comfort food. I definitely say we should explore, try new things, imbibe in different regions and cultures, and take our everyday meals to a new level when possible.

That said though, she has a point too. There are times I can get a little too much out there. Actually that’s not totally true: “out there” is not a bad thing. It’s the sometimes overlooking the “normal”, everyday food that is something that can happen to me. Easily. So, I guess the old adage, keep your eyes on the stars, but your feet planted on the ground applies here.

So, I have to remember that besides doing Hawaiian Shrimp and Morrocan Kabobs, that I need to remember to cover the plain ol’ basics too With this in mind, I present the everyday salad, the salad that I have made the most The four veggies are “must haves”; what makes the salad “zing” is the fresh produce and the combination of spices and herbs. Enjoy.

Everday Tossed Salad
©2007 Harry Kenney

ingredients and spices:

2 stalks of hearts of romaine, cut down to the best parts
3 big tomatoes, Jersey when in season, (6 or 7) plum tomatoes otherwise
1 medium onion, red preferrably, yellow for more “bite”
1 cucumber, cubes over slices, semi-deseeded
salt
pepper
garlic powder
onion powder
basil, dried
oregano, dried
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese, from container, but you could use fresh

Check the lettuce for any outer browning, and take those leaves off for the trash. Cut the top very green parts of the romaine else they will wilt in your salad quickly. Cut off the bottom hard core too. Now that we’re down to the prime part of the lettuce, give it a rough cut and place in large bowl.

Tomatoes, with a pairing knife take out the top core, slice into chunks. Red onions, take off skin, dice. Cucumbers, if very seedy, use edge of tablespoon and deseed. Mix the produced in bowl with hands.

Season to taste with salt, pepper, garlic powder, just a little onion powder (optional), basil and organo. Now mix everything together well in the bowl using your clean hands. Now add some more seasonings and mix again. This is to ensure you’ve plenty of “spice” in there.

Finally, add in the grated parm and “toss” or mix one last time. The powedered ingredients and the parm with not only add great taste, but they will also help “mop” up some of the liquid.

Place bowl in refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes; this will do two things, obviously it will chill it up more, but (almost like a marinade) it will give some time for the produce to take in those seasonings and everything to mix together well.

Serve salad in individual bowls and top with your favorite salad dressing. My personal favorites are: Creamy Italian, Ceasar (regular or with Bacon), Ranch Dressing with Peppercorns. For less fatting, non-creamy: Regular ol’ Italian or for something special, Raspberry Vinaigrette.